See Why I Like To Surf?

It's like you and the water are one with each other. You take care of it and it will take care of you. Something so calm has your life in its hands. That's why I like the rush. I've been hit a few times with the waves and kind of blacked out for a few seconds but I have a concrete head. Nothing breaks through.

An Unfortunate Ocean Fact

Having a Lifqual

As I sit here not being able to walk since yesterdays surfing accident I stare at Milo (my dog). He lays there and just stares back at me. We do this for about 20 minutes. During that time I just wondered why is he staring at me. What does he want from me? Why am I acting like this? I think its a side effect of the medicine.

What if I never surf again? My life would never be the same. As I continue to stare at Milo I feel depressed because he isn't doing anything. My friends are at the beach surfing. I can't go because if I go I'll try to surf. I got up at 4 this morning and realized my leg is still broken. What do I do now? I just went out with my crutches and made it only to my car and I gave up. Having a lifqual just isn't working for me.

Lifqual: a life that you feel is perfect but is flawed very badly. The flaw is being perfect.

I say I don't like my life but if I change it I know things will be much worst. I really need to get back to surfing to get my mind off this. I have a great life and I wouldn't change it for a thing. I met a girl the other day and she's coming over after work to keep me company. I have 2 great pets. I have a neighbor that treats me like the son she never had. I live right on the beach. I have a great job. Great friends that I always have fun with. I even love everybody. Life is good, a little too good.

As I stop typing I look back down to see what Milo is doing and he is still staring back at me. I feel at home. Otis (my other dog) is doing his thing like he always does. I just pop in Cats & Dogs and he'll sit there for hours when I put on repeat but not Milo. The dogs are just like me exactly. Otis is having the fun life where everything is perfect and never goes wrong. Milo is having the life where you see if you are truly happy. Put them together and you have me. But don't let Milo fool you. He's just as active as Otis. They sometimes switch personalities on me and just become total opposites for a day. If life was that easy.

I promise my next post will be a little more cheerful. I got the surfing blues. I leave it at a happy note.

My girlfriend is back with some fettuccine alfredo with a side of fish and shrimp. Oh how I love living on the coast.

Goodnight.

Blood Wipe Out

Just got back from the hospital. Banged my leg really bad on some rocks in the water today. Right now I'm numb from all the pain but as soon as it wears off.......AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But until then I'll just talk about the situation.

The routine I do every morning is surfing right at dawn, but I decided to go out a little further than usual, I also went to a different beach. I think that really made the difference. I was laying on the surf board when I tried to ride this wave when it came by but I slipped and fell on the board. I went under and my leg got caught in between some rocks. I rarely curse but I was screaming every word under the water. I got myself lose and just started swimming but it hurt badly. When I got out of the water, every thing below my knee was covered in blood. I guess surfing when your sick was a bad idea.

The hospital isn't too far from where I was so I drove to it. When I got to the hospital, one of the nurses passed out. I was like cool. The doctors said that it isn't as bad as it looks. He did say its broken though. From the looks of it, it looked like something bit my leg. But I'm ok now. I guess I won't be surfing for the next few weeks.

ok gotta go, the pain is coming back

What's Your Poison?

Something so peaceful and calming can turn tragic so quick. You look to the skies as if somebody is calling you from the heavens and you swerve and hit another car killing yourself instantly. Art imitating life.

Sorry for the sad post but life isn't always as perfect as you want it to be. I think I'm coming down with a bad cold which is just throwing me way off balance.

Towelie Says...

I like to do my best to help every plant even if the plant makes me high. I just keep thinking of that scene in Without A Paddle with the marijuana farm catches on fire while the guys are running through it.

My Place

If I clean this up, I will lose everything.

Under The Water

Went surfing with my two dogs today. Met a lady that thought they were so cute. We exchanged phone numbers and I'll be out on a date Wednesday.

Being by yourself is fun but sometimes you need someone to call lover. I haven't really been out on a date for about 3 weeks. Hope I know what to do........

I rarely stay in long term relationships. I had one not so good one which just shut me off emotionally for all the others I went out with afterward but thats a long long story I'll talk about later.

Perfect Relaxation

Nothing is more relaxing than getting a lawn chair and just sitting right there at the edge of the ocean just letting the waves hit your legs and just falling asleep. Tried that once and fell asleep and fell in. Best to stay awake.

The Aloha Spirit

Been around for years and means peace and love to all. I just told every body at work today to just show your Aloha Spirit to others and life will come back to you much better.

Fast

This is my first post as you can probably tell. My blog will pretty much describe the things going on in my life now. So whats going on in my life right now? Nothing really, just got back in from walking my dogs Milo and Otis and I ate some Gumbo my neighbor made for me.

I have a routine that I do every day for the past few years. I wake up at 4 a.m. and surf until about 7 a.m. I come in and walk the dogs for a hour. Take a shower and ready for work by 9 a.m. Get off at work at various times but if I do get off earlier I just go back to the beach and surf or hang out with friends for the rest of the day and walk the dogs when I come back. I guess I can fit blogging in that time.

Peace Out

greg

What the Ling-yo

I remember watching Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and thought they were the coolest things in the world. They eat pizza, they can fight, and they can talk cool. I kind of still talk like them now. Well nowadays, nobody talks like that anymore

Surfing terms that just went away like

COWABUNGA
NARLY
DA BOMB
DUDE AND DUDETTE
WIPEOUT
FAR OUT

Makes me feel all warm and gooey inside. I always wished I could be a turtle too. But that would be really freaky looking in real life.

Oh how can I forget Master Splinter. And his nemisis Shredder and then Brain. And then the movie! Vanilla Ice oh the fond memories. But I can't forget the reporter April. She was hot.

Feel free to play the video that has really nothing to do with this post and that already has nothing to do with the title.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=QISelW0H6_Y

I would've taken the pizza but I have way too much sand in my ears. Reminds me of another commercial.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=I_p-bW3ove8

The kids have to be approaching 30 when they shot that.

The ultimate Anti Drug PSA would be to let kids watch Requiem For A Dream. I didn't touch asprin for a month after watching that.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=goFV3wDWb7Y

Sorry about that one, I just took my pain medicine for my broken leg.

Wow I'm way off track here! What was this post about again......Oh, surfer slang is cool and will never die! Surf on. And let the surf be with you.